Thursday, November 25, 2010

The hot Cyprus

Kalimera or kalispera, depending when one is reading this

Just so I don’t forget some of the most important trips outside the country’s borders, I felt I should write about this specific one: Cyprus, October 2010.

I’ll try to remember the daily trips but probably I’ll forget lots of points of interest :D

Anyway, us 4 (me, Vic, Ady Rau & Adina) got there on a Sunday afternoon, after a mere 2 hours flight from Bucharest. “There” being the airport of Lanarca, one of the newest of Cyprus, very well maintained.

First thing you notice is the driving on the wrong side (or should I say, the right side, ha!)

The oversized van that Geta and Claudiu rented for us, eventually fitted us all plus our 7 kilos bags.

We got to the house (looking more like a small mansion) in one hour and, to celebrate our arrival we’ve ordered the “traditional” Greek pizza - extra large super supreme from Domino’s.

Second day: I woke up with a weird calling outside: Antony-mou, Antony-mou…I thought it’s just a loud neighbor yelling at his friend (but I found out later the guilty neighbor was a cute talking parrot)

In the courtyard there was a big fig tree with large ripped figs, yum…

Among the points we’ve visited that day (and afterwards): Apolo’s temple, a Roman arena, Aphrodite’s rock and spring; Venetian bridges; Kyrenia and Kantara Castles and the Turkish side of Cyprus.

The high point of the trip: me overcoming my everlasting fear of getting water inside the ears. The remedy? Snorkeling!!! Even though there were no spectacular scenes, being able to see clearly underwater is a great feeling. Next step: scuba diving.

Speaking of phobias, this trip started a new one: off-road driving, especially when hungry. The rise in the adrenaline’s level it’s not worth it…

Another thing that started on this trip: being dependent on “The Big Bang Theory” sitcom. This coming Thursday we’ll be up-to-date with all the episodes.

I should also mention their dishes: Cyprus food is good, not great; too less spices for my taste and too many fish based meze. Also, what’s up with that aversion against garlic?

The drinks: do not try Keo (their traditional beer) and also, the Carlsberg is weird there…Romanian beer is better ;)

What else? Ah, the wild donkeys from the northern part – cute but dusty, almost look like they were domesticated (we’ve even touched one).

As for the cities: we didn’t get a good chance to visit them (as we were on a strict schedule), but what I’ve seen, I’ve liked: clean, white buildings, blending with a couple of higher steel & glass ones; very good roads and touristy taverns everywhere. On all of them the customary water tanks, proving the importance of unsalted water on that dry island.

The prices? A little too high for what they were offering, but, as every country that relies on tourists to bring the majority of income, it’s understandable.

Over all: a beautiful, small region, where you’d be happy if you'd really love the heat and which makes you want to visit its big sister; but that, hopefully, will be another story.

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Barcelona day by day

Hola,

Estamos en Barcelona, yey!
But I did find a couple of minutes to write (very punctual) some of our impressions so far.
Day 1:
We got here an hour later, due to some never-ending airport formalities but the "aerobus" was on time and Placa Catalunya was waiting for us.
The hotel, Room Mate Emma - a real delight, priced like a three-star hotel but offering technology like at least a four-star one. On the way to the hotel we've walked by Gaudi's two famous houses: Batllo and Mila. (and everyday afterwards we've passed by them on our way to the subway station).
As tired as we were, we still went to see the Magic Fountains show of light, water and music. It was like you were descending to a fairy tale and never want to go from there.
Day 2:
Had our (overpriced) coffee on the Rambla, admiring Casa Mila on the daylight. Then, we've walked towards Sagrada Familia, which, like a ton of other monuments is still in a re-construction phase. Impressive artwork, amazing details at every corner and all the towers were displaying biblical stories and characters.
After a couple of cervezas, we've headed down south to see Parc de la Ciutadel with its fountains designed by who else? Gaudi...
Day 3:
Since Barcelona has a couple of kilometers of beaches to the Mediterranean Sea, we've decided to dedicate a full morning (and 17 Euros) to sunbathing. As for swimming, it's almost impossible...cold water, strong currents and abrupt edges at the seashore. On the beach one feels like home: tens of street vendors yelling their merchandise: sun glasses, massages, scarfs, tattoos etc.
In the afternoon I've decided to take a chance in trying Barcelona's traditional dish: paella. Big mistake! Not only it had clams, semi-cooked squid, bones of a (supposedly) chicken, but the rice itself had the weirdest taste. The soup, gazpacho, it was a little better, like a cold cucumber and tomato soup, very refreshing.
Afterwards, we've headed to Gaudi's most prestigious park: Parc Guell. Situated at a higher altitude (luckily there were some escalators), the park stretches on a couple of ha area but we only went to see the columns, the windy benches and, of course, the lizard. For the latest we had to wait a little bit, as there was a scene of a movie getting filmed there and the area was closed.
Day 4:
This day was a relaxed one, we've only went to see the Cathedral and Placa de Colum (with its huge statue of Columb towering the port).
Just an FYI: the Chocolate Museum closes at 7pm weekdays :)
Day 5:
We got up really early and went to MNAC; impressive by its size and location, as the palace has more than 100 rooms (I wonder how they didn't get lost in the past there?), all forming a labyrinth (and I bet there are a couple of secret entries, too).
Tonight we'll see the fireworks (hopefully) for the St. Joan holiday. These fireworks can be bought almost from everywhere, together with "petardas" - it's going to be a loud night, I bet.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Weekend in Brasov

The previous weekend (4-6th of June), before the heat wave hit us here, we went for a short trip to a beautiful mountain area: Brasov.
Situated in the middle of the country, it's taking about 5 hours by train to reach it but it's worth it, no matter the outside season.
Like usual, we went to the old part of the city, where Piata Sfatului reigns, surrounded by all sorts of hundreds-old buildings (like Biserica Neagra) intertwined with a couple of new age constructions.
Everywhere you'd turn you'll find a coffee shop, beer garden, outdoor restaurant, etc. This concentrated diversity tends to look at a certain point like a single entity but it is nevertheless charming.
Lucky as we are, our second night there we got to listen to free jazz (as there was an international festivity) and the third day we witnessed a folk festival, gathering costumes and folk music from all parts of Romania.
I'm sure I've skipped a ton of stuff worth telling but, maybe when the Golden Stag will be held there in September, I'll watch TV and remember to update this post :D

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

My first 1st May here

As other people were crowding the Black Sea littoral and were driving on the ultra-jammed highway to the seaside – we’ve decided to stay here, in the capital city…

And it was a good idea – we’ve discovered at least three new places (some better than others).

First, we went at PP59, a restaurant in the Foisorul de Foc area. For a nice warm afternoon, it’s the perfect spot to go: hidden enough to feel intimate but close enough to the public transportation not to be discouraged in going there. The portions are humongous, two people will better share if they’re not really, really hungry. I bet when the owners will turn on the fountain from the center of the veranda, the place will look even better and the turtles will be happier.

After that, since we were in the mood for something more than food (and drinks), we went to the Carturesti bar – a cute outdoorsy bar located just behind the book shop. Except for the prices which were a little bit too high, I found the place just fine.
Not directly related to the bar description but I do have a complaint: how come two of the largest book shops (that also carry paper supplies) do not have playing cards??

As for the third place we went – the Botanical Garden, I’m sorry to say but I was a little disappointed. It looks poorly managed, the grass could use a grass mower, some plants could use a better description (or at least a description), and the lake water, let’s just say – I hope it has seen better days. But, at least it is a green corner of a dusty city and I imagine on a hot summer day one can overlook the faults and enjoy the shadow.

Monday, April 26, 2010

March and April

Long time, no see...
But there were lots of changes (status change, name change, ID change, address change etc)
Nevertheless, we did go out to find „stuff” worth telling.

In no particular order (mostly because I don’t remember when everything happened), the places we went are:

- We saw Ivan Turbinca at the National Theatre from Bucharest. I kind of liked this childish play, with its music, dances, choreography but I was a little disappointed on the size of the location. I went there expecting this huge room only to find a slightly bigger place than the Odeon Theatre. (I think I’m going to rate it 7/10)

- On the same night we found Dharma Bar – a place in Old Center where all 10 of us could fit and perhaps even more. But don’t go there in the lower room: there’s no ventilation whatsoever and the air becomes quickly irrespirable. (It gets 6/10 at most)

- The highlight of the events that we’ve attended was Mozart Rocks: entertaining, dynamic, diverse on all ranges of music (and the fact that I’ve stayed three rows apart from the cute conductor Tiberiu Soare helped a lot :D). Not to mention that it was for a noble cause: helping abused children. I’m going to give a 10 to this event.

- The latest movie we saw was Un Prophete, a French prison movie. If you could resist the first half of the movie (because it’s really violent), then the rest is quite good. I liked especially the camera movements following different actors going through different stages. I’ll rate this 8/10.

- And, the finale: a not so cheap but OK food – sushi place: Zen Sushi. Situated somewhere in the sector 4 of Bucharest, you don’t need a reservation as the place is almost empty; don’t let yourself fooled by the size of the portions, a plate for two is more than enough. I will rate this one 8/10, too.

Saturday, March 6, 2010

Flamenco night at Sangria restaurant

We went last night to see a “world renowned flamenco dancer” at Sangria, a restaurant in the Stefan cel Mare area.
The Argentinean Lucas Molina danced (and mostly clapped) together with the Flamenco Pasion band, whose feminine member (I believe her name is Reka Fodor) was a delight to hear and watch.

The show was supposed to start at 8.30pm. An hour and a sangria carafe later the artists showed up on the mini-stage set up on the second floor of the restaurant.
I think they put up a pretty good show, considering you didn’t have to pay an entrance fee (although you’ll feel the price at the end, in the upped prices on your bill).

However, besides the girl at the entrance, everything else was tasteful (delicious sangria, the chef’s (George Catana) dishes were full of savor, the waiters prompt and helpful, the ambiance inviting).

The dances and the rhythms were typical for a Flamenco evening (one would say a little too typical considering the looks of Lucas). The tall, dark-haired Latino look was completed by black clothing and heeled shoes. I’m no Flamenco connoisseur but I guess it could have used a little more passion, less concern for technical steps. But overall it was nice, considering that Lucas tried to involve the public, too (“I want women” he said, and in 2 minutes he had eight pretty girls around him).

The restaurant itself is one of the best I’ve seen until now in Bucharest and I imagine in the summertime, when the patio will be opened, it will look even better. Not only that, but it seems there are always cultural activities happening there (next week is jazz week).

I’m going to rate this experience 8 / 10.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

Other places in Bucharest

Nothing spectacular in a while, so this is just a gathering of some places we’ve discovered and are worth mentioning.

1. Mexican restaurants:

- El Torito, in the Mosilor area: the waiters are really slow (if you go downstairs in the non-smoking area), the food is OK (except for the guacamole dish, that barely had any avocado in it), the prices are pretty high, but if you’re going once in a while I guess it’s fine.
Over all I would give a 7.5 to El Torito (I would have given an 8 if they would have shown anything else on the plasma TV than B1’s repetitive Powerpoint slides).

- Don Taco, in the Piata Victoriei area: it’s a mix of Mexican and Romanian cuisine, more towards the Romanian part. The service was a little bit better and the prices were a little smaller than at El Torito. I thought the food was not that great, Victor seemed to like it better here. Again, the disappointing guacamole dish that didn’t even resemble the Mexican recipe. But at least the corn chips were tastier (although not free of charge like in the other restaurant). All given, I think I’m going to rate El Taco at a 7 / 10.

2. Karaoke club: Friend’s Pub, in the Piata Muncii area.
A very nice club, pretty large but cozy, situated behind the old Cinema Gloria (without this mark point it is really hard to find).
Fridays are karaoke nights here but even though they are advertised to start at 9pm, expect people starting singing around 10.30 or 11pm. The choice of songs is pretty big (if you don’t mind the same piece written 5-6 times, once with caps, once without, once misspelled, once remixed etc). The good part is that you don’t have to go on the stage to sing, there are wireless mics that you can take at your table if you are shy (or drunk).
The cocktails are yummy and the prices are those from any club (around 15-20 RON). For bigger groups it’s always best to call ahead and reserve a table.
My rating for Friend’s Pub: 8.5 / 10.

3. Lebanese restaurant: Naser, in the Piata Domenii area.


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A small, unpretentious joint with good food and fast serving. Depending on what you’re ordering you’ll find some delicacies or plain dishes (the lentil soup wasn’t that great but the rest of our order was delicious). The best part is that the prices are low, so you can afford to try different stuff until you’ve found your favorite. Going inside you’ll have to pass by their store and I strongly recommend taking some dessert home, the traditional baklava is the best). The cleanliness is not their strong point but it is at a bearable level, no obvious signs of health hazards :)
I am going to rate Naser 9 out of 10, since it’s one of the places I’m sure I’m going to return soon.

Sunday, January 31, 2010

Ada Milea at Green Hours

Ever since I was in college I liked Ada Milea’s songs. I used to listen her albums at every party and at some point I knew all the lyrics. But time has passed and life, problems, happenings took this away from me and I drifted apart from her music.

Last night I had the good idea to go in Green Hours Jazz Club where Ada had a concert.
The place was small, crowded and, unfortunately, not smoke-free. The chairs uncomfortably low and the prices – a little on the expensive side. But all of this would not matter when the recital began.

Ada is so natural, so simple, so jovial that you cannot help but bond with her and her music from the very beginning. She filled the room with smiles and her guitar chords were in synch with everybody’s feelings.

The high point of the evening was "Apolodor" when Ada was accompanied by two young actors: Dorina Chiriac and Radu Banzaru:




The song based on a poem by Gellu Naum carries us along the funny story of a little penguin in search of his family at South Pole and it is (in its twisted way) an allegory for our life in search of happiness.

The music travels too, along with the main character as he goes through Oriental rhythms, country/ western-style, Latino pieces, etc and all the transitions are smoothed by the actors’ vocal special effects.

For those who wanted a little variation, the three artists had prepared the English version of the song, but the original Romanian one was much better.

At the end of the concert, as we left the club, I think everybody felt a little bit lighter, maybe a little bit happier, or at least carrying a smile on their faces.

I promised myself I’ll definitely return to this club whenever a concert like that will take place.
Oh, I almost forgot: if you ever try to make reservations here, call at least 24 hours ahead, otherwise you’re not guaranteed a table.

Since I like giving grades, I would say last night's experience deserves a 9.5 overall.

Saturday, January 30, 2010

The Imaginarium of Doctor Parnassus

It has been a while since I’ve added something to this blog. Maybe because of the slow beginning of the year, or inactivity, or laziness, take your pick. But today I have something:

The Imaginarium of Doctor Parnassus, directed by Terry Gilliam.

Heath Ledger’s last movie is a chaotic incursion in the imaginative world. I don’t expect this movie will make it as a blockbuster. As I sat through the 2 hours story, at least one third of the audience stood up and left the cinema. Too bad for them, but I guess The Imaginarium is not for everyone, you have to be a little open-minded and accept the lack of order and linearity in a movie about imagination :)

The plot itself is simple: an ancient wizard (Doctor Parnassus) made a deal with the devil, promising the soul of his child when she'll turn 16 in exchange of youth and love. The old man (who was immortal due to another bet with the devil) was traveling the world with his ambulant Imaginarium, a place that could reach deep into any customer imagination and give shape to thier dreams once they enter the magic mirror.

As the devil comes to reclaim his prize, Doctor Parnassus enters into another bet, promising five souls in three days, which he would obtain with the help of Tony, the hanged man he recently saved from death.

In helping the doctor, Tony enters the Imaginarium and his personality changes every time, hence the actor is different every time: from Heath Ledger, to Jude Law, to Johnny Depp and finally – Colin Farrell, each bringing his own traits to the part (from wits, to charm, to sensuality, to paranoia).

As a fantasy, I think the movie was a success, and the effects used to create the fantastical worlds from everybody’s minds although old-schooled, were really well done.
The Faustian storyline, on the other hand, wasn’t as successful. I think you cannot try to explain how the mysteries of mind work through logical reasoning, relying on an immortal man’s drama.

Heath Ledger’s last performance doesn’t even come close to his Joker role and maybe Terry Gilliam could have left the Oscar-winning part to be the actor’s last one. As to who would have got the role instead of Heath? I don’t know…maybe Johnny Depp, whose performance was the shortest amongst all the “Tony” characters. But I’m no director and I guess the Imaginarium is in a way a tribute to Heath Ledger and all the big names, his friends participated in creating this whimsical world for him, in his memory.

The movie was a little bit too long; one cannot take that much of fantasy intertwined with a reality that’s not very clear either. But it was a good movie, worth seeing in a cinema or at home in a cold winter day with a hot cup of cocoa in front of you.

I think it deserves at least a 7 / 10.

Sunday, January 10, 2010

Musafir by Amarjit

Gabi again.
At the beginning of the year, our next stop gives us a taste of India.

The Musafir by Amarjit restaurant is a very informal eatery, where the owner is also the cook, sometimes the server and for sure the companion to your table talk. The name of the place says everything: you're a guest in someone's kitchen and he's trying to make your stay as pleasant as possible.

Getting there could be regarded as an adventure, although on the daylight that sector 5 area of Bucharest is not totally unfriendly, some would say “picturesque”.

Finding the place: unless you have specific instructions it will be hard, almost impossible. First of all, there is no signage on the street to announce the restaurant’s existence; second, you have to enter into another restaurant (The Ark), pass a bodyguard, go through another entrance, and then you’re there. Sounds like a shooter game, doesn’t it?

The exact address is: Calea Rahovei 196A but it is always better to have some directions :)


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The place looks like a huge transparent tent, built from wood and foils, with colored wooden benches.

The owner, Amarjit, comes from the northern part of India but he lived for some years in US, worked as a photographer and somewhere along the way he learned to master the art of cooking.

Don’t expect a food menu, as Amarjit will cook something else everyday, two or three appetizers and two or three main dishes and improvise the rest. Everything gets done on the spot, so I wonder what happens on the busier days, when there are more than two or four customers at once…

The food is quite good, I have had better, but in the US, where it is made with ingredients available there; in Romania, using and improvising with the resources from here – I think Amarjit got a pretty good result.

The ambiance is set by some background music (and news) from NPR, a radio station I used to listen to not so long ago in the States. If you feel like talking, the owner will be more then happy to continue a conversation on any subject.

The prices: decent, considering the type of ingredients, some unseasonal, some maybe hard to find here – I guess 25 USD for a two-person lunch is OK.

I think Musafir deserves an 8.5 on my scale (and soon, when I’ll gather more places, I’ll put together some graphics).

Friday, January 8, 2010

Polițist, adjectiv

Victor here.

Last night we finally saw Polițist, adjectiv (Police, Adjective). It's a meditation on words, meaning and law, directed by Corneliu Porumboiu.

Sounds boring, doesn't it? But it's got chases (well, they're not really chases, it's just a policeman following a high school kid around the blocks in Vaslui), it's got suspense (solved by reading from a dictionary), it's got catchy music (a Mirabela Dauer song on Youtube repeated over and over), it's got drug dealers (well, just some teenagers smoking hash), it's got violence (some raised voices, at most).

Wednesday, January 6, 2010

Trying new places: Caru cu bere

The second part of my Sunday: going to “Caru cu bere” restaurant (in translation — "The Beer Wagon").

Located in the “old center” of Bucharest, during weekends is always crowded so you better not rely solely on luck and call ahead for a reservation.

If you’re hungry enough you can find the food here delicious… otherwise it’s just a little above average (depending on what you’re ordering). I recommend trying the home made bread; it goes well with anything you’re ordering, especially the home made vegetable spread… yum!

The ambiance is nice and if you manage to get a table during their daily shows, you’ll sure have fun. But don’t get offended if the waiters seem to forget about you or not notice you when you’re asking for some water (you sure need some after the truly spicy Hungarian goulash) — they are really busy, especially at dinner time.

As for the prices: I would say it isn’t cheap (for my standards) and maybe it would be more accessible if not for all the stars that came here (whose misspelled names and pictures you’ll find on the back walls).

Since I started rating stuff, I’ll say the restaurant gets a 7.5 on a scale from 1 to 10…

Sherlock Holmes: the movie

Sunday afternoon: what can be better than dinner and a movie?

This first part: the movie – the 2009 Sherlock Holmes directed by Guy Ritchie.

We thought we should try a new cinema: Cinema Pro, a one-screen theatre situated near University Place. Besides the good location it also offers pretty comfortable seats and decent sound and image quality. But I digress…

The movie itself: not that great. I totally agree with the film critics that said that if it wasn’t for Robert Downey’s performance the movie would have failed. Maybe I’m a little bit conservative but I like my Sherlock Holmes old-fashioned, keeping its inner mental problems for himself and being more preoccupied to solve the case.

As for Watson, I think he should have been a little more contoured as a character, with a little bit more personality.

Maybe it was Guy Ritchie’s style that didn’t match this sort of story but I must say the plot itself wasn’t a masterpiece either: a few bad characters that try to take over the world using the black magic façade to manipulate the ordinary people. When you’re thinking Sherlock Holmes you’re thinking wits, deduction, and anticipation. The movie had all this but in smaller proportion compared with the fight scenes (that remind one of scenes in Fight Club).

In my humble opinion if you take away a few of the fight shots, add more witty deductions and keep the performances of the male actors you could have a better version of the movie. But, then again, if you change all these you’ll get another classic Sherlock Holmes movie. So I guess it’s up to what you’re expecting.

On a scale from 1 to 10 I would give this movie a 7 at most.

Friday, January 1, 2010

Sibiu

Next stop: Sibiu (or, how others would call it: Hermannstadt).


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I got there on the third day of Christmas, when most of the people barely remember it's still Christmas. The town still had the coat of lights on, maybe preparing for the New Years Eve or just being happy that there is still a holiday, who knows?




I think I see a pattern with these old cities: whenever you want to find the most beautiful part of a town you ask directions to the "old center". You sure are in for a treat ;)





So, like Oradea, Sibiu had gathered its most beautiful buildings in the old part of the city. It had put together three squares interlinked through various small and hidden alleys and everywhere you turn you’re bound to find a coffee shop, restaurant or souvenir kiosk. Just don’t adventure too far on the Small Square, otherwise you’ll end up on Liar’s Bridge (Podul Minciunilor).




On top of that, the mayor (some say he might be the best one in the country) had arranged for the Large Square and the Small Square to be tastefully illuminated for the winter holidays and had gathered all sorts of entertainment gadgets (a skate rink, huge Christmas tree, carousels etc).




During daytime, after visiting the Lutheran Church (Biserica luterana) and being really, really disappointed on the Brukenthal Museum closure 'till February – it was time for a snack and coffee. I recommend everyone to try the Wien Cafe. If you're lucky, you'll get to hear live piano music and if you're luckier (I wasn't) maybe you'll get a piece of strudel, made after a Viennese recipe.

After taking hundreds upon hundreds of photos (amongst them only 10 or 15 worthy enough to be shown to others) – I stopped for a while to admire the cleanliness, the colors, the height of every building. St. Ursula's Church (biserica Ursulinelor), the Central Tower (Turnul Sfatului), the Orthodox Cathedral (Biserica Sf. Treime), the massive city walls and arches and everything else should remain more than a snapshot forgotten on a memory stick somewhere...




At night, for dinner, if you're in the mood for something fancy - the Gothic Restaurant is the place to go; if the budget is not that big try the Grand Plaza Restaurant: there are not that many places where you can buy a good steak for less than 7 USD...

It's true I tend to get easily impressed by new things (small, big, alive or static) but I think anybody would be if they would see how buildings come to life and they are literally watching you...just look at the eyes on the roof, they are on the verge of creepiness.




Other place not to be missed in Sibiu (better seen on a summer day than in winter time, though) is the Astra Museum: a huuuge area gathering all types of old countryside Romanian houses and constructions. If you can, avoid the only restaurant there, or, if it's not possible, stay on the safe side with some appetizers or cold plates.




It wouldn't be fair not to mention the people living in these areas: aside from their sweet accent, they are some of the warmest and hospitable, as ready to help you or give you directions as anyone I’ve ever met.

Fifty years from now (if I'm still alive) I'll retire somewhere around this area (and if not for good, maybe at least some of my retiree vacations will be spent here).

These were my short 2009 visits; I can hardly wait to see what 2010 has in its bag for me...